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Munich Fabric Start opens the season Autumn/Winter 20/21. In an interview with Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start, and Jo Baumgartner, Trends & Fabrics Munich Fabric Start, Luna Journal talked about the upcoming international textile fair.
The Munich Fabric Start will take place from 3-5 September 2019. Visitors can look forward to many innovations and highlights. Jo Baumgartner also reports on expected trends for the upcoming AW 20/21 collections.
What awaits visitors to the upcoming issue of Munich Fabric Start?
Sebastian Klinder: In the past, Munich Fabric Start has already set strategic and content-related focal themes with BLUEZONE, KEYHOUSE and the individual forms of presentation of the more than 1,000 suppliers of fabrics and additionals. We have expanded, completed and deepened this concept both qualitatively and quantitatively. In September there will be a trade fair event with an unprecedented density of products and topics.
At the MOC you will experience a completely new form of trend presentation.
We have once again optimised the area of the ReSOURCE Area in Hall 4 and thus created increasing competence for sustainable fabrics and ingredients with proven expert know-how.
A special highlight will be the SOURCING Area in the recently opened Hall 8, directly opposite the MOC.
The KEYHOUSE, as the think tank of the Munich Fabric Start, spans the spectrum from technology to sustainability, from digitisation to new material resources and manufacturing processes and thus offers a wealth of state-of-the-art research projects, inspiring collaborations and high-tech product and process developments. Also spectacular is the new SUTAINABLE INNOVATIONS performance at KEYHOUSE, as always curated by Simon Angel.
I would also like to draw attention to a completely new conceptual approach in the BLUEZONE. The ALL RELATED COLLAB PROJECT by BLUEZONE is a model for future cooperation networks, each with 8 fully integrated teams that have realised a sustainable denim look.
And last but not least to the special exhibition of Ruedi Karrer x Candiani x Denimhunters, which shows a selected vintage denim collection with exclusive collector’s items.
The motto of the last issue was: “What is LOVE” – for a new way of dealing with fashion, for more creativity and the courage to try something new. Which focus did you set for the September issue?
Sebastian Klinder: The general theme of the upcoming Munich Fabric Start is BEYOND AWARE. It analyses the multi-layered levels of consciousness on which we perceive ourselves and the world – personal, global, regional, mental, rational, emotional and transcendental. It is about self-awareness, the contemplation of the status quo. BEYOND AWARE stands for a new way of thinking and rethinking that goes far beyond our previous understanding of fashion.
BEYOND AWARE challenges us to observe the changing consumer and clothing behaviour very closely and to react in a targeted manner. And please do so dynamically, attentively and courageously. I am convinced that this will be the start of a trend-setting
and change in values, which currently manifests itself in two ideological orientations. On the one hand in Bold Expressions as an individual, very enthusiastic lifestyle and fashion style. On the other hand in Forward Ethics for conscious, responsible consumption. Two very different currents that polarize and attract attention. The declared goal of BEYOND AWARE.
Digitisation, e-commerce and artificial intelligence influence the processes in industry and commerce. To what extent does Munich Fabric Start respond to this?
Sebastian Klinder: We are dealing very intensively and progressively with these topics. Out of this dynamic, KEYHOUSE has emerged as a platform for fashion tech, smart textiles, sustainability and innovation. Just how right and important this decision was is shown by the great interest shown by exhibitors and the increasing number of visitors.
Digitization 4.0 is certainly one of the key items when it comes to future process control within the textile and fashion industry.
One of the essential building blocks within these technical upheavals will be the digitization of fabrics and ingredients. Digital material parameters such as elasticity, flexibility, tension and bending stiffness must be determined for the realistic case of textiles in product simulation. For these physical measurements it is necessary to record surfaces, colours and textures and to combine them technologically.
A DIGITAL FABRIC LAB installed in KEYHOUSE for the first time demonstrates what this analysis process can look like in practice and how fundamentally this new achievement changes and accelerates production processes.
As a joint show case, initiated by Munich Fabric Start, leading specialized companies and a university have joined forces to demonstrate individual steps of this innovative process in simulated digitalization stations in a comprehensible and practice-oriented manner.
Among the pioneers and promoters of this new technical development are Triple Tree as software developer, Vizoo, specialized in material visualization, Caddon as expert for multispectral color communication and Assyst as market leader for 3D digitization in the fashion industry. With the University of Dresden a partner could be won for the PHYSICAL FABRIC MEASUREMENT, which analyzes and prepares materials as an official test laboratory on site.
Which textile innovations are expected for the next Autumn/Winter season?
Jo Baumgartner: The greatest innovations await us from the field of sustainability, whereby the novelty here is also to bring well-known concepts that have already been tried and tested on a small scale to the market on a larger scale.
At Munich Fabric Start we will be presenting exciting projects at KEYHOUSE: be it 3D Knitwear on Demand in the Knitcloud, yarn production from real hair, the Mixed Reality Retail Tool as hololens from KPMG x MICROSOFT or textile dyes from by-products of the food industry. Be it Printed Electronics on textiles in the Smart Textiles Pop-Up Lab of the Holst Centre x Pauline van Dongen. So a lot of input for a future to be redesigned.
In addition, there is the great challenge of achieving greater transparency in procurement and production processes. And of course the question of what effects sustainability and transparency have on consumer behaviour.
What new trends are emerging in the haptics sector?
Jo Baumgartner: Haptics is still an important topic that will continue in the coming winter. The desire for diversity has increasingly prevailed in the haptics of fabrics. Thus, familiar tones such as black, brown, green and red are given additional character through more structure. Additional impulses come primarily from nature and from the interior of bathrooms and wellness areas. Summarised under the large heading ‘Bathleisure’. This is where a new trend of comfort, technology and 3D surfaces is developing.
Which trend colours do you see for Autumn/Winter 20/21?
Jo Baumgartner: Brown probably gets the most momentum, from very dark and noble, from elegant to very light, soft and warm beige tones. This new naturalness combines beautifully with intense colours. Another important area, as already mentioned, is sustainability as a source of inspiration for less trendy, classic and less bright colours. Some of the tones and melanges are also produced by recycling processes or the use of natural dyes, which are also less radiant and less technical in appearance.
Which prints will dominate the upcoming Autumn/Winter 20/21 season?
Jo Baumgartner: Undefined stone, natural and batik structures please more than ever. They are a strong indication that fashion, and ultimately also us, are getting ever closer to nature and the natural as a whole.
The layering of motifs conveys the same charm of blurriness. Retro, whether as flowers or different animal motifs, remain in vogue. Since checks continue to play a dominant role in all variations, they will often be seen in print motifs as well.
What about the launch of the Sourcing Area at the Munich Fabric Start?
Sebastian Klinder: With the launch of the SOURCING Area within the framework of the Munich Fabric Start in the newly opened Business Club Munich directly opposite the MOC, we have ensured a direct connection of the nevertheless independent and adequate area for the growing demand of SOURCING Services to the Munich Fabric Start and BLUEZONE. Unfortunately, delays in construction work have repeatedly led to postponements. All the happier we are now to be able to offer such an exclusive setting with a tremendously beautiful ambience.
The idea behind this new format is to create an inspiring and efficient atmosphere in which we can create a unique world of communication and work in a contemporary and high-quality ambience. We will surprise exhibitors and visitors with a completely new format. We, too, are curious about the reactions.
Which segments will be presented in the Sourcing Area? Which companies will exhibit there?
Sebastian Klinder: More than 80 international clothing manufacturers and producers will be presenting their services for the women and men, accessories, corporate, couture and tailored segments. In this way, we consistently cover the entire textile value chain.
Among the exhibiting companies are Aegean Apparel Exporters’ Association from Turkey, Amith from Morocco, FTC – Foreign Trade Chamber from Bosnia and Herzegovina. Invest from Northern Macedonia and TTA-Textile Trade Association from Macedonia. Also Selectiva Moda from Portugal, Tunisia Export Cepex, Via Vietnam Industrie Agency as well as Vestire and SM Senra, both also from Portugal, from Italy for example Flietessuri as well as Compass Tex from Hong Kong. All in all, this is a very strong international contingent of successful companies that present themselves here.
Certificates and seals serve as signposts for sourcing. How important have they become for the fashion trade?
Sebastian Klinder: The awareness for ecologically sustainable certificates and seals of quality is increasing more and more. The consumer is now very well informed and open-minded. With ReSOURCE, Munich Fabric Start has established an extended sourcing platform that shows new dimensions of sustainability for innovative and future-oriented production. And thus created a forum supported and initiated by experts that offers solutions, provides answers, informs about the latest standards in seminars and lectures, and brings potential cooperation partners together.
In personal discussions on site, the visitor learns all the important details about the respective certificates and seals directly from the responsible associations and institutes.
We are convinced that the more knowledge about sustainability reaches the end consumer, the more information is provided, the stronger will be the targeted demand in the trade.
Our primary task as Munich Fabric Start is to start in the preliminary stage where we are located. This is where we create a space for exchange, communication and cooperation. We are strongly committed and competent in this area and are pleased that this offer is accepted and used intensively by the industry.
For the seventh time, the HighTex Award will be presented at the trade fair from 03 to 05 September. What does the award stand for?
Sebastian Klinder: The textile and fashion industry increasingly assumes responsibility for transparent and sustainable production processes, for resource-saving material extraction, for product innovations with added value, for the development of the latest technologies and re-organisations.
We at Munich Fabric Start support this investment in the future and the great commitment of the increasingly numerous companies operating in this complex and very complex sector. This involves a great deal of development and research work, but also, of course, a high investment, often over a long period of time. It is important to us to acknowledge this effort and commitment and to make it public. By awarding this innovation prize, we are creating a media forum.
The HighTex Award is part of an overall strategic approach to intelligent process solutions, innovative highlights, biotech, digitization and, of course, sustainable innovations. The categories will be judged: High-Tex, Technology, Smart Fibres, Sustainability, Resource Efficiency, Finishing, Functionality, Health and Circularity
Process. An essential criterion is the guarantee of process realization and marketability.
Which workshops and talks are planned for the upcoming issue of Munich Fabric Start?
Sebastian Klinder: For the upcoming Munich Fabric Start there will be an incredibly dense and top-class programme of events with exciting topics, polarising discourse and trend seminars for tomorrow’s fashion.
Below are just a few of the highlights:
KEYHOUSE, Hall 5
Tuesday, September 03, 2019
11.30 to 13.00 | PANEL DISCUSSION SusTECHability – How Trends & Technology influence Sustainability in Fashion Lifestyle & Design. Sustainable Resources & Circular Processes. Big Data & Artificial Intelligence. Areas that in the past were completely separate from each other influence each other and become the melting pot of the future of fashion.
With Li Edelkoort, the international trend expert, Michael Stanley-Jones from UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion, Tricia Carey from Lenzing Fibres, Natasha Franck, Managing Director and founder of the EON Group, Eric Bang as representative of the H&M Foundation, moderated by Jana Kern & Alex Vogt, KERN. Consulting.
13.00 hrs to 14.00 hrs | CIRCULART
How art changes the textile value chain
14:00 to 15:00 | SWAROVSKI
KEYHOUSE Talk on the subject: Trend Technology Design
With Dr. Ralf Weinberger, Global Trend Intelligence Swarovski in conversation with Christel Wickerath about macro trends, sociological developments and concrete design examples
16.00 hrs to 18.30 hrs | LI EDELKOORT – Exclusive Trend Presentation
Brown Age – Fashion, Shapes & Textiles and Colours for Autumn Winter 20/21
Green Wave – New Colours for Spring.Summer 21
Recreation – Casual Wear Trends & Colours
Meet & Greet – Li Edelkoort
WEDNESDAY, September 04, 2019
10.30 am to 11.30 am | FashNerd Panel
Reshaping the Fashion Indsutrie for Good
A panel discussion led by Muchaneta Kapfunde, founder and editor-in-chief of FashNerd.com
11.30 am to 12.30 pm | EON GROUP
CircularID – The Digizal Foundation for Circular Economy
Natasha Franck, Managing Director and Founder of EON Group Holding Inc.
Maruschka Loubser, Director – Brand Marketing and Partnership Microsoft
15.00 hrs to 16.00 hrs | KEYNOTE
Printed Electronics for Smart Textiles
Pauline van Dongen, Creative Director at Pauline van Dongen
THURSDAY, September 05, 2019
11.00 am to 12.00 pm | FashNerd Keynote
From Seaweed to Fiber – Is Biology the Future of Fashion?
Muchaneta Kapfunde, Foundation Editor-in-Chief FashNerd.com
12.00 to 13.00 | PANTONE
Pantone Colours Trends. How Nature Drives Design Through Colour and Perspective
BLUEZONE Denim Dock Hall 7
Tuesday 03 and Wednesday 04 September 2019
10.00 a.m. to 11.00 a.m.
Carved in Blue – The Modern Definition of Denim / Video Screening
11.00 a.m. to 12.00 noon | PANEL DISCUSSION
The Greendigo Revolution
Albert Llort, Head of Global Competence Center Denim at Archroma
Alberto Guzzeti, Sales Manager Teijedos Royo
Panos Sofianos, Denim Curator Bluezone
16.00 hours to 17.00 hours | SPORTSWEAT INTERNATIONAL TALK
Women in Denim
How the power of women will change the denim world.
Sabine Kühnl, Editor-in-Chief SPORTSWEAR INTERNATIONAL
Lucie Germser, Head of Communication & Design at Monsieur-T.
Furthermore, we invite our exhibitors and visitors to presentations in the new SOURCING Area Hall 8. I would also like to draw your attention to the highly informative lectures and discussions on the subject of ReSource at K4 in the MOC.
What future plans are you pursuing with Munich Fabric Start?
Sebastian Klinder: Our goal is to create an optimal platform for the industry with the industry with Munich Fabric Start, BLUEZONE and the formats integrated and docked therein. We are continuously working on this. This is a constantly changing process, as the markets change rapidly and decisively again and again.
Our task and responsibility is to observe and listen very carefully. To see how the market is developing. Where are the major swings? What moves the industry? And as a logical and responsible consequence, to give answers and set impulses. We do this with the greatest commitment. And with the support of proven experts, not only in bilateral talks, but also very openly and present in our numerous panels, discussions and round tables, but also through cooperation with
established partners. We live trade fairs. And we invite our partners to participate, to contribute.
In the future, strong and reliable partnerships, visionary and committed collaborations will be more important than ever. The emerging challenges are too great to be tackled on their own.
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Link: The next Munich Fabric Start will take place in September
Image: Munich Fabric Start