From 29 to 31 January 2019, 19,800 international trade visitors came to Munich Fabric Start under the motto “What is love”. This is three percent fewer visitors than in January 2018, partly due to the current tense market situation. Luna Journal spoke with Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start, among others, about the colour and pattern trends for SS20 and the influence of new technologies on the sustainable fashion approach.

How did the current issue of Munich Fabric Start go?

Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director Munich Fabric Start: The latest event clearly showed how important a functioning and optimally equipped business platform is in view of the challenges of the market. The opportunities for direct exchange and intensive networking offered by Munich Fabric Start were used more than ever.

All major buyers and designers were on site in Munich after three days of Munich Fabric Start from 29 to 31 January 2019, according to the unanimous conclusion. The current Munich Fabric Start has shown how symbiotic the relationship between fashion and technology is. That many processes have to be rethought and it is no longer enough to think fashion from the end product but from the start of the process, right from the extraction of the raw material.

How important is sustainability at Munich Fabric Start?

Sebastian Klinder: Munich Fabric Start was quick to take up the issue of sustainability in a very competent way. Nine years ago, Munich Fabric Start established a sustainability area with its organic selection. ReSource as an extended sourcing area has been the consistent further development of sourcing for two seasons now, highlighting new dimensions of sustainability for innovative and future-oriented production.

In addition to ReSource, Sustainable Innovations will show the visionary spectrum of the latest material innovations and future-oriented sourcing concepts in the Keyhouse.

In addition to sourcing textiles and ingredients, modern trade fair business is increasingly concerned with ensuring that visitors can find the right process partners for sustainable value chains and enter into new strategic cooperations.

 

The development of new technologies, the efforts of sustainable product development and the guarantee of transparent processes and supply chains are also honoured by Munich Fabric Start with the HighTex Award, the innovation prize of Munich Fabric Start, which has already been awarded for the fifth time.

To what extent do new technologies influence the sustainable fashion approach?

Sebastian Klinder: Technological progress often opens up the possibility of developing sustainable fabrics and producing more resource-efficiently. New techniques and innovative processes can reduce water consumption in textile production, while laser techniques can reduce the use of chemicals. The complete digitalization of the supply chain saves additional resources. Sustainable results can be achieved with the right supply chain partners: This is also demonstrated by the Planet REhab collection by designer Juan Carlos Gordillo, who has created a collection from Tencel™ and Tencel™ x Refibra™ fibres by Tejidos Royo. The fabrics were dyed using Officina+39’s Recycrom technology and then finished with a Tonello finish. The result, which could be seen at the latest Munich Fabric Start in the Keyhouse, impressively demonstrates how the sustainability aspect also acts as a technological innovation driver.

What trends do we expect for Spring/Summer 2020 in terms of colouring and patterns?

Joachim Baumgartner, Trends & Fabrics Munich Fabric Start: “WHAT IS LOVE” is our overriding theme for the Spring Summer 20 season. The main focus is on a love of fabrics, materials and fashion. But also about love for nature, the earth and our fellow human beings. A great tendency towards noticeable rusticity can be seen not only in materials, such as natural linen blends, but also in the colour scheme, where many light beige colours perfectly match bright peach and yellow shades inspired by midsummer sunlight. Also in numerous naive herbarium-style leaf and flower patterns, which are often printed on grainy, irregular materials and stand for naturalness. They look new when combined with summery stripes.

Joachim Baumgartner, Trends & Fabrics Munich Fabric Start

Kitsch is another important theme for inspiration, colours and motifs. In the weakened nuances of the rainbow, they fit wonderfully to the many colour gradients and toned batik variations.

Marbled patterns in plain and as print are great motifs and colours for neutral, indefinable patterns that are oriented towards the irregularities of nature. The colour blends of neutral nude and greiges, mixed with mint and delicate lilac, create new moods for Spring/Summer 2020.

What cuts, colours and patterns will there be in children’s fashion?

Joachim Baumgartner: For us, the children’s market is still based on the topics mentioned above. Kitsch is often put together from a mix of natural vegetables, fruit and animal motifs with classic summer motifs such as ice cream or sweets. The cuts, which lose their objectivity especially in children’s areas, can also be emotional and kitschy. Overall, summer 2020 will be sensual and enjoyable.

How important have eco-labels become for the textile industry? Which seals are particularly important for end customers and have gained in importance?

Heike Hess, International Association of the Natural Textile Industry – Head of the office: “Seals that check the sustainability of textile products are becoming increasingly important for companies and consumers. It is hardly possible to know and assess the production process of a garment from the field to the coat hanger without appropriate certification in the branched and global supply chain. Seals are also very helpful for consumers because they show at a glance whether and to what extent a textile has been produced sustainably. The best-known seals with high ratings from the press and the public are the Global Organic Textile Standard, Naturtextil Best and Made in Green.

What new solutions were presented at Munich Fabric Start?

Sebastian Klinder: The supply offensive with regard to innovative product developments is growing continuously. At the current Munich Fabric Start, the portfolio of progressive and future-oriented fabrics and additionals was also large. For example, a new product development using a combination of wool and Cordura with elastane from Becker Tuche Aachen, which received the HighTex Award for this. According to Becker Tuche, the fabric has a high abrasion resistance despite its low weight and very good water vapour permeability. Preferred areas of application are light outdoor styles as well as streetwear and corporate fashion. Relast’, Candiani’s new GOTS- and GRS-approved denim line, which uses Roica premium stretch yarn, should also be mentioned here. The same goes for Invista’s patented Lycra Freef!t technology for more comfort and freedom of movement.
The winner of this year’s Munich Fabric Start Innovation Award is Becker Tuche from Aachen. From left to right: Alex Vogt, Sebastian Klinder, Peter Recker, Frank Junker, Simon Angel – Munich Fabric Start
In addition, Munich Fabric Start will showcase pioneering innovations in a specially curated area of Sustainable Innovations. Here, the innovation aspect is particularly focused on sustainability. Diana Scherer, among others, presented her “Interwoven” project for the current season: Here, the root system of plants is formed into a textile-like material. Another botanical example is offered by Dutch designer Nienke Hoogvliets. She demonstrated how algae can be used as a sustainable textile dye to produce an environmentally friendly yarn.
In addition to Fabric Innovations, there are also process solutions such as the Rehab collection, which was presented in the Keyhouse. Another example was presented by the Swedish company We aRe SpinDye®, which revolutionised the dyeing process for polyester in the textile industry. For the first time, they have succeeded in developing a dyeing process that is certified at all stages and sets new standards in terms of clean colours and environmental protection.
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Link: Impressions of the Munich Fabric Start
Image: Munich Fabric Start
//JP